From Ocean to Plate: The Ecology and Changing Trade of Bengal's Beloved Hilsa

Hilsa fish travel between forty and sixty kilometres a day moving from the deep ocean into river systems across Bengal and Bangladesh during the monsoon to lay eggs. Sujoy Chatterjee, co-founder of the lunchroom Amar Khamar, notes that historical migration patterns were altered by the Farakka Barrage, which stopped the fish from swimming as far upstream as Kanpur. Connoisseurs have long debated whether Ganga hilsa tastes better than Padma hilsa, comparing the fish to wine due to how river depth, silt, and water composition shape its flavour. Old Calcutta eaters once claimed they could name the exact river stretch a fish came from through taste alone. Today, Kolkata's market relies on local catches from places like Diamond Harbour, Canning, and Lakshmikantapur, along with fish from Gujarat's Narmada region and imports. Mujibor Molla, a fish vendor at Gariahat Market, states that hilsa is currently selling for ₹1,800 to ₹2,000 per kilogram, while off-season prices range from ₹1,200 to ₹1,400 per kg. Trade data from Tridge in June and July 2026 shows frozen and fresh hilsa imports arriving primarily from Myanmar, alongside exports to countries including Iraq, Malaysia, the UK, and the US. Environmental pressures such as pollution, rising ocean temperatures, and deep-sea fishing now threaten the species, while consumer demand for year-round supply has led to hilsa maturing at smaller sizes.